Cenacolo, Yi Jiang Nan, Ragu Bolognese

Had probably the worst meal out in HK so far on Friday at Cenacolo on Graham Street, Central (fortunately with great company though). It was like eating in a Italian in Streatham circa. 1972 - complete with wooden cartwheels on the wall, because they look, you know, rustic.

Anyway, I had read a unfavourable review of this place first (sour milk Pannacotta anyone?) but as I hadn't booked it and am trying to rein in my Bossy Boots (or Little Miss Know-It-All as E says) tendencies, I didn't mention anything.

"Worst" makes it sound like it was so awful that we all spent the night being ill - it wasn't that at all - it was just a bit rubbishy - all the dishes came as the menu stated, but is was just so disappointing - the the menu was overly lengthy (pages and pages), the antipasto platter was exactly that only they had used the cheapest meats and accompaniments, the pasta was ok, but again, they had used the cheapest type of pasta, so the texture was poor, the calamari was rubbery (and a bit fishy), the main courses un-memorable and I don't think any of us finished them, and the medium-bodied red recommended wasn't. It wasn't that the food was bad (the service was good), it was just very poorly executed food - no passion or love or thought. In HK's fierce and excellent restaurant scene, I am amazed they can get away with it.

However, despite this we did have such a fun night due to the company - lots of chatting and wine (and cherry-topped drinks). We ladies had to be forced into in taxis at 2. Perfect.

All this was followed up by a lovely meal at Yi Jiang Nan on Staunton Street on Saturday, when we were both feeling a little sorry for ourselves and craving the comfort food of fluffy white rice and spicy chillies. The beef with scallions was excellent, as was the garlic sauteed Chinese broccoli. Also good was the fried chicken with chilies and the salt and pepper aubergine (though a little plentiful). It certainly hit the spot.

Yesterday we had impromptu lunch on our new dinning room table - square is the way forward, very sociable. I made fettuccine with ragu, whilst E brought some lovely Jambon Iberico (leg and loin) which we ate with Parmesan and honey for nibbles first, and a couple of lovely bottles of red and a pudding wine which we had with Friands - all very good. Followed by a few too many drinks down at the Peak Lookout, under the trees in the garden.

Ragu (Bolognese)

This takes awhile to make so I recommend making twice the recipe and freezing the rest – it’s very handy to have lots in the freezer, and you can also use it as a base for cottage pie and lasagne. It re-heats like a dream.

1 kg lean mince beef
50g Good butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 white onion, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
1 small stick of celery, finely chopped
300ml dry white wine
200ml milk
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
400g tinned tomatoes (plum or Italian), chopped

Melt the butter and the oil in a heavy bottomed pan on a medium heat and add the carrot, celery and onion and cook until the onion is translucent. Add the beef and stir until all the raw red colour has gone (but it’s not fully cooked or brown). Turn the heat to medium-high and add the wine and stir occasionally until the wine has evaporated. Turn back to a medium heat and add the milk and nutmeg and stir until most of the milk has evaporated. Then add the tomato and stir until they bubble. Tune the heat down low and cook for at least and hour (if it reduces too much, add a little water)

Storage: Freeze in re-sealable bags. Make lots as it freezes really well.

Weather - as before. Really. Not good.